TREVINI RESTORANTE

Address: 150 Worth Ave., 561/833-3883 Cyber address: www.treviniristorante.com D.O.B. 2001 Ambiance: Spacious, gracious and lovely with a true Italian feel; situated on the second floor of The Esplanade shops, overlooking the balcony, greens and fountain Signature drink: Palm Beach martini (orange Van Gogh vodka, orange juice, Triple Sec and a splash of grenadine) Signature dish (lunch): Lemon sole oreganata con arance e perini all'olio d'oliva (herb-crusted fillet of sole with marinated fresh orange sections and basil olive oil) Signature dish (dinner): Veal chop stuffed with spinach, fontina cheese and Parma ham with porcini cognac sauce Regular Cast: Leslie White, Jesse Newman Celebrity sightings: Armande Assante, Paul Anka, Faye Dunaway

Once you've conquered the shops on the Avenue and climbed the eastern Esplanade--a Sherpa guide at your side helping you with your packages--you'll find true respite in the hospitable environs of Trevini. This hideaway high above the Avenue is the result of two friends' visions--Master Chef Claudio Trevisan and restaurateur Gianni Minervini--hence, the name Trevini--resulting in a fabulous, authentic Italian culinary escape. Trevisan takes care of the "back of the house," preparing delicious dishes from his native Stresa, Italy.

Executive Chef Trevisan is a veteran when it comes to Palm Beachers' tastes (among other ventures, he operated Claudio prior to teaming up with Minervini) and his culinary creations are gorgeous, ranging from light to entirely filling. The specialty du jour is a terrific lemon- and herb-crusted sole served on a bed of spinach with red onion and olive oil, and topped with marinated oranges. Another lunchtime winner: the fresh mussels and littleneck clams in a garlic, olive oil, Chardonnay wine and plum tomato broth. Another gem is the cannelloni, beautiful, tender crepes filled with a delicate ground veal and chicken stuffing. It is served with spinach, a sweet tomato sauce and a light bechamel with Parmesan on top. One must not overlook Trevini's salads--fresh and perfectly dressed (much like the customers who order them!)--ranging from mixed baby greens, with fresh orange wedges and Gorgonzola chunks to a beef carpaccio on arugula with truffle oil and Reggiano cheese shavings.

Minervini creates a warm welcome for his guests, whom he treats as old friends. Young guests are also treated as equals; in one instance, there were five little ones in high chairs or strollers all politely eating their specially cooked "noodles" while the wait staff doted away.

The efficient and capable crew looks smart in an Italiano livery of red vests, crisp white shirts and ties, black trousers and long white aprons. Trevini also boasts an elegant and spacious private dining room with an octagonal stained-glass ceiling for special functions. There is a handsome archway with a glass and iron door revealing the impressive wine "cave," which houses a tremendous selection of Italian wines as well as American vintages. Of the interior, Minervini says, "We intended to create a warm and relaxing atmosphere reminiscent of the finer trattorias throughout the Italian Peninsula." And that they did.

Trevini Restorante's Lemon Sole Oreganata (serves 4) Bread Crumb Oreganata Mixture 1 small garlic clove, minced 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1/4 cup fine bread crumbs 1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest 1 tablespoon finely chopped Italian parsley Salt and pepper In a bowl, mix ingredients and set aside. Orange Marinade 1 orange, sections only 10 eyedrop (pear) tomatoes, cut in half 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 4 basil leaves, julienned Salt and pepper In a bowl, toss ingredients and set aside. 4 fillets of lemon sole (6 ounces each) 1 ounce juice 1 ounce Chardonnay wine 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper In a 350-degree oven, bake fillets with lemon juice, wine, olive oil, and salt and pepper for 10 minutes. Place oreganata mixture over fillets and bake for 5 minutes. Remove from oven when golden brown. Arrange fillets on a plate and top with oranges and tomatoes. We suggest serving over a bed of fresh spinach sauteed with garlic and olive oil.